Welcome to Post #4 - Finishing the Bag & Entering to Win!

If you have just joined us, Lindsay and I are sewing up some projects found in our book On the Go Bags, and this sew along is for the Airport Sling bag. Today we are going to finish the last steps, and at the end of the post, you will have a chance to link up your Airport Sling photos so you can have a chance to win some awesome prizes!

Join us in the On the Go Bags Facebook group, to join the sew along fun and chat with other participants!

If you have missed a post in the sew along, here are the previous posts:

• Post #1: Supplies, Cutting & Interfacing
• Post #2: Creating the Passport Pocket
• Post #3: Finishing the Bag Exterior

Let's Get Started:

This is what it will look like!


You can now open it up and press the fabric away from the zipper. I like to press the seam allowance towards the top in this case, and topstitch next to the zipper because it makes the zipper lay nicer than if the seam allowances are pressed to the bottom of the bag.


You now have to repeat this process to stitch the other side of the zipper to the other lining piece. This is easiest if you have your zipper open. Follow the steps above to pin it in place, but you'll have to stitch it a different position!  You'll still start at the end with the zipper opening, but it will be upside down, with the lining bottom on top, zipper right side down, and Lining Top piece at the bottom. Essentially, you will be stitching from the "back". This way, you will still be able to pull the zipper away and out of the seam when you reach the end.


At this point I remembered my metal zipper ends… I always forget those!! I most often make a square fabric tab to go over the end of the zipper, and have never actually put one of our Emmaline metal zipper ends on one of my bags, so this was the perfect time. It might never actually get seen, because I like to tuck my "tail" of my zipper into the bag, rather than have it all hanging out, but at least I know it's there and I'm not going commando…..


Okay now, time to finish up the rest of your bag as instructed. Actually, I didn't do what was instructed and in my chocolate induced daze I actually just stitched up the sides, left an opening at the bottom, boxed the corners, and then found the BASE!  I was supposed to put in the lining bottom! ARGH. So of course, I didn't rip it out, my corners were already boxed and trimmed! My lining is a wee bit shorter than the outside of the bag without the lining bottom in there, but that's ok. Only I know. And now you all know. I should have actually read my own instructions, but I figured "hey, I wrote this over 1 year ago, I remember it fine!".

Here's a look at how the bag looks with the zipper opening complete. It's a bit fiddly to open if you try to slide the zipper without holding the bag side. I pinch the top of the bag like shown in the photo below, and then pull it closed, and pinch the other side to open. In the photo, my zipper end is tucked down inside the bag.


The Airport Sling bag exterior passport pocket:


The Airport Sling bag front slip pocket:

A quick note about you bag strap! 

If you are using quilting cotton or similar weight fabric, you will want to add a layer of interfacing onto the bag strap. I didn't add any to my light canvas duck and it worked out perfectly and has a nice weight and stiffness to it.

Thats a Wrap 

That wraps up the Airport Sling Sew Along, but we aren't done with these On the Go Bags sew alongs yet!  On May 1st we start the Sporty Strap Pack Sew Along with Lindsay Conner ! I will post the prizes for that one next week… whoop whoop!!

Supplies

• Phillips Screwdriver
• Hardware Glue (e.g., E6000)
• Peltex [~ 6” x 8” piece or (2) scraps at 3” x 4”]
• Seam Sealant (e.g., Fray Check)
• Rotary Punch (optional)
• 1 Pair of Oval Bag Handles

The beginning steps of grommet handle installation are completed after your fabric has been interfaced (according to your pattern’s instructions) but before your project is constructed. The reason for beginning the installation of the grommet handles before your project is constructed is so that we can insert a Peltex support between your fabric layers. Actual installation of the handles will not be until your project has been topstitched and is pretty much complete.

Trace Handle Backs

Place the back of your handles on your Peltex*. (The handle back is the side with the screw holes.) Trace the inside of the handle and the outer edge of the handle. We’re making a Peltex support that will sit between the front and back of the grommet handles. When you’ve traced both handle backs, cut out your shape. It should look like an oval doughnut.

*I did not use fusible Peltex; I temporarily held mine in place with some fabric glue. If you have fusible Peltex on-hand, it will work great but it’s not necessary, as we will eventually be stitching it down.

Mark Handle Placement

You will be marking handle placement on the wrong side of the exterior panels of your project. I am making the Window Shopper Tote by Mrs H, so I am marking my handle placement 1.5” down and centered from the top edge on the wrong side. At your project’s center mark make a vertical line approximately 5” long so that you can use this line for centering the top and bottom edge of your Peltex support.

Affix Peltex

Fold your Peltex in half to find the vertical center. (Short ends of the Peltex should be touching.) Mark the vertical center on both the top and the bottom. You’ll notice in the picture of my Peltex that I marked and punched my screw hole placement. Do NOT do this. It’s near impossible to feel those little holes through the lining fabric. So we will be punching our holes later. So in subsequent pictures, please disregard my screw holes.


Align the vertical center marks on your Peltex with the vertical line that you drew in the previous step. If you’re using fusible Peltex, fuse it now. If your Peltex is not fusible, use a bit of fabric glue to hold it in place, or pin it in place. Once you’ve centered your Peltex, stitch all around the inside of the Peltex, just inside the edge.

Cut Handle Hole

Using your Peltex as a guide, cut your handle hole. You will eventually have to cut a hole through your lining as well, but it’s easier to cut through the layers separately so that you’re not trying to cut 2 layers of fabric and interfacing all at once. After you’ve cut out your oval, apply seam sealant all around its edge.

Finish Your Project

Now that we’ve placed the Peltex support, finish your project according to the pattern’s instructions. We will place the actual handles until after your project has been topstitched.

After you’ve attached your project’s lining and topstitched, you’re ready to begin installing your handles.

Cut Lining Fabric

You will use the hole that you cut on your exterior as a guide to cut your lining fabric. First, pin the lining fabric so that it’s taut and there are no wrinkles so that you know that it’s aligned properly with your project’s exterior. Once it’s pinned, trace the oval hole onto the wrong side of your lining. It’s not necessary to trace the hole but it will be easier to cut if you pull the lining away from the exterior a bit, so the traced oval will be there as a guide. Cut your lining fabric.

Sew Lining to Exterior

With your lining still pinned around the hole that you’ve just cut, sew a line of stitching over top of the stitching where you sewed your Peltex to the exterior. This line of stitching will not be seen. It’s just to hold all of your layers together and prevent shifting. It will also make it easier to get the fabric not to peek out of the inside of your handles.

Mark and Cut/Punch Screw Hole Placement

Take your handle back and place it on top of your oval on your LINING. (You want to make sure you’re not placing your handle back on your exterior.) If you have any large chunks of fabric or interfacing showing inside of the handle, trim them now. If it’s just little bits, we can trim those later. With your handle back positioned, mark screw hole placement with a pen. I had a rotary punch that I used to remove the fabric and Peltex from my hole placement but you could use a seam ripper to puncture your fabric and carefully cut away a small hole. You want to make sure you remove enough for your screws to fit through.

Glue Handle Back in Place

Take your hardware glue and place a bit on the backside of your handle back. Make sure you don’t put too much because you don’t want it oozing all over your project. Have a scrap of fabric handy so that you can make sure to catch any glue ooze so it doesn’t get where it’s not supposed to. Carefully place your handle back on your LINING over the oval hole, making sure you line up the screw holes that you made. After your handle is positioned properly. Press down firmly. Allow the glue to dry for a few minutes before moving on to the next step.

Glue Handle Front

Position your handle front onto your exterior fabric around the handle hole. If there is any fabric showing from the front, trim it now. Place some hardware glue on the back of the handle front. Carefully position your handle front and gently turn your project so that you can see the lining to make sure the front is aligned with the screw holes. Leave your project with the lining face up so that you can insert the screws in the next step.

Install Handle Screws

Taking your hardware glue and a scrap of Peltex or cardboard, make a little puddle of glue. We’re going to dip the screws into the glue to make sure they don’t come unscrewed. I placed my screw on the back of a tiny eyeglass kit screwdriver that I didn’t care if I got glue on. I found this easier to use than using the larger screwdriver for this step. But if you have a larger screwdriver that has been magnetized on the tip, that would work well too. You don’t want too much glue on the screw threads so rub off any excess before installing them into the handles. When you’re screwing in your screws. Press the handle back firmly toward the handle front so that the fabric is squished in between and the screws are able to catch the threading of the holes.


Stand back and admire your shiny new handles and finished project!

The Window Shopper Tote: Pattern by Sewing Patterns by Mrs. H, Sewn by The Cloth Albatross

Take My Craftsy Class at 50% off!!

Welcome to Post #3 - Finishing the Bag Exterior.

If you have just joined us, Lindsay and I are sewing up some projects found in our book On the Go Bags, and this sew along is for the Airport Sling bag.

Join us in the On the Go Bags Facebook group, to join the sew along fun and chat with other participants!

If you have missed a post in the sew along, 
here are the previous posts:

• Post #1: Supplies, Cutting & Interfacing
• Post #2: Creating the Passport Pocket

Let's Get Started:

I've made another video for you to share which pieces we will be using. Any instructional tips I have in there will be repeated below. Watch carefully because there will be a skill testing question at the end of the post!




Page 119 - Make and Attach the Slip Pocket

Transfer the markings:
Before you get started, you'll need to transfer the target markings onto the front piece of the slip pocket, and the front of the slip pocket flap (if you are using a twist/turn lock), or the BACK of the slip pocket flap (if you are using a magnetic snap).

Follow the instructions to create and attach your slip pocket. I've got a few tips here that will make things a bit easier for you!

The first thing you will do is attach the turning part of the twist lock, or the female side of the magnetic snap onto the marked spot. I would use your ruler here and double check that it's centred. I've attached the turning part here:

In Step 3 I have you add your turning part of the lock first, and then sew around the Slip Pocket pieces. This does create quite a lump inside with the turning part there, but it's totally doable. If you would prefer, you can add the turning part (for a bag lock) or the magnetic snap half (for a magnetic snap) after it is turned right sides out. Tip: Glue a piece of fleece over the back of the metal washer and prongs on the wrong side of the fabric to protect your phone or other items that might get put in this pocket!

If you need some extra help adding a bag lock, here is a tutorial for you. 
If you need some extra help adding a magnetic snap, here is a tutorial for you.

At the bottom of page 116, it tells you to repeat steps 3-5 for the slip pocket flap. This is what it will look like when that is done. You can see the added piece of stabilizer I have fused to the wrong side of one piece. This can either be fusible fleece or peltex and is for added thickness and strength for the bag lock plates or the male side of the magnetic snap.




Add the Rest of the Lock Parts: Turn the flap right sides out, press, and topstitch as instructed in step 8 at the top of page 117, and if you are adding the bag lock plates you can follow the instructions in step 9 or use the tutorial I linked to above.

Adding a Magnetic Snap: If you are adding the magnetic snap, you can add the other half of the snap TO THE BACK SIDE of the flap only. Do this by reaching through the opening to separate the layers so that you don't poke holes through both the front and back sides. You can follow the tutorial linked to above, reaching through the opening to turn the prongs over.

Attaching the slip pocket to the bag front is pretty straight forward. I only have a couple of hints for you here:

1. Make sure you have your exterior panel positioned so that it's 10 1/2" wide and 9" high, and not turned the other way!  The book has a typo and says "10" high". I didn't see this during the editing process. The cutting directions are correct!
2. When stitching the top of the slip pocket flap on in Step 12, my machine was having trouble with the layers and the angle the foot was sitting on. Switched to my walking foot/quilting foot and boom, troubles were over!

Page 118 - Assemble the Exterior Shell
You might as well leave that walking foot on from the hint above, because you'll want it if you are working with some fabric that is backed with fusible fleece. It will stitch through like a dream with the walking foot. Lengthening your stitch length through thick fabric and layers always helps too. Here is what it looks like with the tops/bottoms on the exterior panels before they have been pressed over and topstitched. There are so many layers at the bottom of that passport pocket, I switched to a jeans needle after breaking whatever needle was in my machine! I guess it didn't deserve to be there ;-)


Speaking of boxed corners, if you haven't done this before you might have trouble visualizing it from the drawing, so this is what it will look like when you have placed the side seam down on the base and pinned it in place. This is done in step 4, but this is the view from the TOP.


Let's go back to the photo that was above this one, this is the view from the bottom:


Step 5 at the top of page 119 seems a bit confusing, because it is! This definitely could have been written better and the drawing could have been better to. This isn't exactly how I wrote it, but I guess the tech editor thought it was confusing the way I wrote it, so fixed it for me. Let me make this clear, the line (blue line in the photo above & blue dashed line below) should be 1 3/4" long and the point will be about 1" from the line. Here is a clear drawing!

Tip!! My machine kept skipping stitches when I tried to sew this dashed line, even with my walking foot. The issue was that other seam that is in the point. It makes a bump and puts your foot off kilter!  I had to go ahead and cut my points off before stitching, which is normally a no-no, but worked in this case. If this is happening to you, I would pin well, mark your sewing line, and cut off the point leaving as much seam allowance as you can. Then sew your second seam line, turn it right side out to check and make sure it looks like the photo below, and then go back and trim back the extra fabric next to the second seam line.

Here is how that gorgeous corner looks!


While we are on page 119, you might as well make the bag strap and add the strap tabs (strap anchors). If you are using some very thick material, you may encounter some difficulties with the thickness of the strap anchor tabs when you are topstitching at the end of the project. If you are using denim, upholstery fabric, or canvas - this might be you! I would consider using a different method than described, which just involves sewing a tube.  Cut your strips 2 1/2" wide instead of 4" and assemble them this way instead:



This concludes my 3rd post in the sew along. I'll be watching the facebook group to see all of your Airport Slings in construction. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them there. Oh, I do have a question for you though! Let's see how many can tell me: Who is my video co-star? Comment below!
In our next post we will be working on our bag linings with an optional pocket and zipper opening. See you later this week!

Thanks for reading!