I sourced a lot of label companies, and yes there are a lot of choices. There are woven and printed, satin and twill etc., but not only are commercial labels quite costly, but there is usually a minimum order quantity. I don't know about you, but I'm not willing to fork out a large amount of my well earned crafting cash to order 500 labels that I may not like or use later on down the road. The truth is, when I printed my own labels, it was mostly because I was too impatient to wait for a label order and needed a bunch for a market right quick, so I made my own and was very happy with the results. If you are making something in a very large quantity, it still could be easier and cheaper (per label) to order them. There are a lot of websites out there that handle woven labels, so do your homework and get a few prices. But if you want to print your own, I can show you how.
How about trying another way to do an internal zipper pocket. If you have already tried Sew an Easy Zipper Pocket - Method 1, you might want to now expand your fabulous zipper skills and try one slightly different.
This still a very easy pocket, but it does have a couple more steps than the other. It's done a little differently so that the zipper edges are hidden on the inside. The bag pocket itself, provides a facing. You can't tell the difference from the outside of the pocket, the big secret is how it looks from the inside. See the photo!
If you are feeling adventurous and really want to look like a zipper pocket pro, try Method 2.
So you are making a handbag; welcome to your new addiction! Does your handbag pattern tell you to put in a magnetic snap, but it doesn't tell you how? It's funny how those magnetic snap sellers just assume that everyone knows the tricks, so they don't enclose instructions. Frustrating! I hope this little tutorial is the help you need. No more velcro please! You are banned from velcro, these magnetic snaps look so professional and are way too easy to put in.
** Update: You can now buy magnetic snaps in my shop HERE!
If you would rather watch a video, I've added this one for you:
Let's get started:
1. You should ALWAYS put on some type of interfacing on any fabric surface no matter how thick the fabric is. Magnets get pulled at and treated roughly and you need to reduce fraying, stretching and ripping as much as possible. The iron-on adhesive helps keep the fibers together too.
Cut a 1.5" square of Heavy weight fusible interfacing. Center the square exactly where your pattern tells you to place the magnet. I like to draw a line on each fabric piece and line the upper edge of my square on this, this ensure that both fabric pieces have their own half of the magnetic closure in the exact same place. In this tutorial, I am going to fold my bag lining in half to find the center, and on this center line I am going to draw a line exactly 1" down from the top.
** Update: You can now buy magnetic snaps in my shop HERE!
If you would rather watch a video, I've added this one for you:
Let's get started:
1. You should ALWAYS put on some type of interfacing on any fabric surface no matter how thick the fabric is. Magnets get pulled at and treated roughly and you need to reduce fraying, stretching and ripping as much as possible. The iron-on adhesive helps keep the fibers together too.Cut a 1.5" square of Heavy weight fusible interfacing. Center the square exactly where your pattern tells you to place the magnet. I like to draw a line on each fabric piece and line the upper edge of my square on this, this ensure that both fabric pieces have their own half of the magnetic closure in the exact same place. In this tutorial, I am going to fold my bag lining in half to find the center, and on this center line I am going to draw a line exactly 1" down from the top.
How about a slip pocket in that bag you are making? Try one of these super easy slip pockets. They are so handy for your mobile phone, your
keys, your cards or even your favourite lipstick. They are quick to
make and look fab! You can't create a bag without pockets!
For a
single pocket that holds a cell
phone nicely, cut a 5” x 10” piece (this will make a square pocket). OR use
scraps & cut two squares that are approx 5.5” x 5.5”.
If you have found this tutorial helpful in the slightest way, please
follow my blog by either GFC, Blog-lovin, Email or signing up for my
Newsletter on the right side bar. And... please share your finished
bags with me in the Emmaline Sewing Patterns Group. I love to see your finished Emmaline inspired projects!
Slip
pockets can be any size you like, you just need to alter the width and length
of your fabric to adjust the size. In my current work in progress, a beach bag, want very big pockets so I can
slide in something big, such as flip-flops or sun block so I make the large
double pocket shown in the instructions below.
Materials:
A rotary
cutter, mat, and ruler
Fabric:
1 -
5” x 10” for a single pocket
1 -
10 x 10” for a double pocket
1 -
16 x 16” for a large double pocket
OR use your own measurements
depending
on what size you require
NOTE: If
you are using quilters weight cotton or poplin, I highly recommend some light-medium
weight interfacing on the back of half of a square cut as above, if not the
whole thing.
Let’s get started:
1) For a
large double pocket, cut a square of
fabric 16” x 16”, OR use scraps
& cut two strips that are approx 16” x 8.5”.
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| A single pocket. |
If using 16x16 or 5x10 piece of fabric: fold
in half with right sides together, press, sew raw edges, leaving a 3” gap for turning at bottom. Use a ¼ or
3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance.
If
using two pieces: place them right sides together, sew around
all sides, leaving a 3”
gap for turning at bottom. Again, use a ¼ or 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance.
TIP #1: Always leave your needle down (in the fabric) when turning corners or when you turn your pocket inside right, you will have puckering.
TIP #2: Before turning right side out, press the seam allowance on the 3” in opening open. Do this by first pressing one side back, then flipping over and pressing back the other.
2) Clip corners, turn, press pocket.
3) Top-stitch across long edge (without opening) about ¼” to ½” from
edge. (This will be the top.)
4) Center pocket on lining exactly you would like it to be. Make sure
it’s straight! Pin around pocket.
5) If you are making a double pocket, mark a center line to divide
pockets.
6) Sewing 1/8” - 1/4” from the edge, sew down one side, across bottom
to the half-way point, up the middle line and back down the center 1/8” to the
side of the stitching line. Go the rest of the way across the bottom and up the
other side and stop. I like to do a double row of stitching about 1//8” apart and
bar tack the stop/starts so that they are very sturdy. Press pocket after
stitching.
Voila! An easy and impressive slip pocket
don’t you think? Try different sizes for different bags and uses. Dividers sewn
in for pens are pretty handy too!
Thank you for looking,
Janelle
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| Sew many options! |





